MEMBERSHIP & AUTHENTICITY GUIDELINES

Welcome to the 1^st Tennessee Infantry Civilian Corps. The Civilians in this organization portray middle to lower middle class families of the Middle Tennessee region. Most of us portray rural residents, yoeman farmers, small town dwellers, or even the occasional resident of the area’s largest city, Nashville. 

Prospective members are invited to join the civilian organization with an initial period during which he/she should have a mentor who is already a member in good standing of the 1^st Tennessee Civilian Corps. The mentor will notify the recruit of upcoming events and provide assistance in acquiring the proper clothing and gear. The purpose of having a mentor within the organization is to provide you with answers to the many questions you will have, and to help you avoid costly mistakes. It is no more expensive to obtain the proper clothing than it is to purchase inauthentic materials. However if you purchase inaccurate goods at the outset, and then have to replace all of these items it can be quite expensive. We are a friendly bunch and more than willing to answer questions and help you to get started so please don’t be shy. 

During the first year prospective members will need to pay at the gate for events that charge a fee. Once you are a member in good standing your annual dues will be used to cover event participation fees for most of the events. (A few events charge higher fees, so rather than inflate our dues across the board, we let only those who wish to attend these events pay the higher participation fee.) Annual dues are $30.00 and need to be paid by the time of the Regimental Dinner, held in March. Prospective members should plan to attend two maximum effort events within a twelve-month period, after which time they will be eligible for full membership. All membership applications are approved by the Company Commander of the 1^st Tennessee, since the 1^st Tennessee Civilian Corps is an auxiliary of the 1^st Tennessee Infantry military organization. Once you become a member in good standing you can then vote in company elections.  
 

Camp Safety

Heatstroke & Dehydration

The number one safety problem at reenactments is heat stroke. Government records of Civil War deaths count 313 deaths caused by sunstroke. To prevent heat stroke and improve your energy level you need to drink water. Lots of water! Experts recommend eight ounces or half a cup of cold water every 15 minutes, before, during and after exercise. Cold water is absorbed out of the stomach and into the blood stream faster. The benefit is that it quickly re-hydrates and cools the body. Have a glass of electrolyte replacement i.e. Gatorade, for every 6-8 glasses of water. You will need to replace the minerals that you lose through sweating.

When taken during exercise, fruit juice can slow the absorption of fluid into the blood stream because of its high sugar content. However, it's fine after exercising. Carbonated drinks can make you drink less because the gas in them makes your stomach feel full. They can also cause an upset stomach. The caffeine in coffee and soft drinks works as a diuretic and can cause you to lose more fluid from your system. When the weather is excessively hot (and you are running around in a wool coat and pants or fully crinolined) you will experience a greater increase in your body temperature and therefore loose more fluid.

Our bodies' thirst mechanism lags behind our actual need for liquids by about one third. And as we get older, it gets slower. Fluid loss causes an increase in your heart rate and a drop in blood pressure. It can make you feel dizzy and cause cramps or nausea.

Before events, freeze water in half-gallon jugs and keep them in your ice chest rather than a bag of ice. It is a good supply of ice water as it melts. Be neighborly and remind your fellow re-enactors to drink a lot of water, too.

Keep Cool. Stay in the shade during the hottest parts of the day. Do your living history presentations under the shade of a fly. When you are walking around, use your parasol or wear a large hat to keep the sun off in a period correct manner. When it gets really hot, soak your chemise in ice water--as it is worn next to the skin it will keep you very comfortable. Drop a few ice cubes down your corset. Another trick for keeping cool if you are going to be sitting for a while, take a gallon jug of ice and slip it into a little bag made from old sheeting. Use it for a footstool or just keep it under your hoop. It will be as if your hoop was an air-conditioned little room.

Use sunscreen and lip balm to keep from getting sun burned. Don't forget to apply sunscreen to the part in your hair. Nothing itches worse than a sunburn on the top of your head. You can apply sunscreen and then pat your face with powder to give yourself that period correct lily-white skin.

Fire Safety

In the era of the hoop it was not uncommon to hear of women burned to death when their skirts caught fire. It is rather difficult to stop, drop and roll with a hoop on. For this reason we do not allow cooking while wearing a hoop skirt.  Be very careful around the fire. This is a good reason to avoid hoop skirts made from polyester. Synthetic fabrics will either burst into flame or melt and leave red-hot blobs sticking to you.   

Kids are fascinated by the campfire and will have an irresistible compulsion to toss little sticks and things in it. Please do not allow this. Every time, almost without fail, they will get their hands too close to the flames and burn themselves, or their clothing will catch on fire

Never throw glass or metal in a fire, they don't burn and glass can shatter. Don't throw plastic trash into the fire - it creates poisonous fumes. (You're not supposed to have any farby old plastic around anyway!)

If you find yourself in the toilsome duty of cooking build some fire safety into your outfit. Keep your skirt width small, use cotton material and wear a large apron. Keep a few wet cotton kitchen towels handy while you are cooking. They are good for wiping your face and hands or to tie over your nose and mouth when the fire is very hot or smoky.

The Great Outdoors

Camp life, idyllic as it is, hides a few risks. Be aware of those little things that will trip you up--tent ropes take a delight in tripping both the unsuspecting reenactor and the general public. Period correct boxes and unused gear can be placed between tent ropes to make them more visible. Don't pitch your tent in such a way as to have a rope cross a pathway. Don't build your campfire too close to the path, if you do, you can be sure that someone will trip over it in the dark.   

Late at night, when you are up to answer nature's call, by all means use a flashlight. It's hard enough to walk around in the dark at home let alone in some strange field.

Remember when walking that you are not on a paved sidewalk. Beware of the likes of gopher holes and rocks that can cause you to take a tumble. Ladies, you had better have your drawers on if you go head over heels...

Nature's Creatures

Creepy Crawlers  Always carefully check the ground you have chosen for erecting your tent. An anthill in the middle of your tent can make things pretty jumpy in the middle of the night. Some types of hornets (called yellow jackets or meat bees in these parts) live in holes in the ground. Burrows could harbor varmints or reptiles. Get a canvas floor for your tent, not only will this help keep the bugs out, but you will not lose jewelry or small items in the grass. during tick season.  Pines can drop big, heavy cones on your head and big, sticky blobs of pitch on your tent.  Be sensitive to nesting birds in the spring.  

Ticks  During certain times of the year tick infestations are very heavy.  Avoid setting up near bushes during this season.  Don’t let your kids run wild in the underbrush.  I have picked a tick or two off some younger reenactors over the years.  If you know infestation is heavy, check yourself and your kids when dressing and undressing.  Be sure to shake out your skirts regularly, skirts dragging on the ground give ticks a great jumping on site.  

If you have a tick bite, don't be shy about asking for assistance with removing the tick as soon as possible.  Lyme disease is a real threat, but quick tick removal is the best preventative for this hazard.  If you get a tick bite that gives you ANY kind of rash see a doctor ASAP.  Lyme disease is curable if treated promptly, but if not treated within a reasonable amount of time, it can mean a lifetime of illness.

Snakes  If you are city folk, a lesson in good and bad snakes is recommended for yourself and your children.  Nothing is more reassuring than that Friday afternoon comment from the site manager "Yeah, we saw a couple of copperheads out here this morning when we brought the hay bales in."  

If your bedding is on the floor, check under the blankets before you get into bed. Most snakes will avoid a bunch of noisy reenactors, so this is rarely a problem in camp. Keep the kids in camp if you have been advised of snake sightings, as they are more likely to encounter snakes in the surrounding wilds. The best advice to give them is to leave ALL snakes alone. Even non-poisonous snakes can bite, and handling can injure or kill the snake.

Be Safe Around Livestock & Weapons

All reenactment organizations have safety rules. Usually, only battlefield combatants are required to read and be tested on these rules. All civilians, young and old, should read these rules and know them by heart. Even if you never go onto the battlefield, you will be around weapons & artillery and will need to know this information to insure your safety.

Know the standard safety distances and do not violate them. Combatants are very careful, but you are responsible for your own safety - do not depend on them to watch out for you.

Never handle or touch another reenactor's weapon without their express permission and presence.

Reenacting horses are well trained, so respect them and train yourself to use care in their presence. Even the most gentle animal may accidentally injure you. Tell your children not to touch or feed a horse without the owner's permission and presence. Do not make any sudden movements or noises that may startle an animal. Should a horse spook and start to run loose, don't try to stop it, just get out of the way and let someone with horse experience round up the horse.

First Aid Kit and Medical Emergencies

The 1^st Tennessee has a first aid kit available for emergencies. Do not depend on this resource for your every need. Everyone should have a basic first aid kit for their own use, with the bare necessities well stocked. Packing a small bag or box with some remedies can be very helpful. 

Basic Kit Contents 

<!--[if !supportLists]-->§  Band-Aids <!--[endif]-->

<!--[if !supportLists]-->§  Neosporin or antibiotic cream <!--[endif]-->

<!--[if !supportLists]-->§  Tylenol, Aspirin or Motrin (any all purpose pain reliever and fever reducer) <!--[endif]-->

<!--[if !supportLists]-->§  Insect repellent: Avon Skin-So-Soft, Citronella Oil, or commercial spray <!--[endif]-->

<!--[if !supportLists]-->§  Sunscreen and a lip balm with sunscreen <!--[endif]-->

<!--[if !supportLists]-->§  A couple of moist towelettes - water is not always handy for cleaning up an owie <!--[endif]-->

<!--[if !supportLists]-->§  Pump bottle of hand sanitizer for use after visiting the porta-potty and before handling food. <!--[endif]-->

Optional items that you might consider: Ace bandage, gauze & tape, aloe gel for sunburn, hydrocortisone cream for itches, sting-kill swabs, burn ointment, chemical cold packs, triangular bandage. I also add a few strips of cotton sheeting to wrap over Band-Aids for period correct camouflage on my boo-boos.  

Medications  If you are on a regular medication, be sure to bring enough for the entire reenactment + a couple of extra days. If you drop a pill in the grass and can't find it, it is good to have spares. Anyone who is allergic to bee stings should have an EpiPen handy and let your friends know about your allergy in case of an emergency. If you can, pack your medications with your first aid kit well in advance of the reenactment, so you can't forget. 

Emergency Information – Be sure to fill out our medical emergency form. This will be kept on hand at all reenactments in case of any emergency. Your information may be vital to getting the medical treatment you need. It is a good idea to request a new one at the annual dinner each year to update your information. Be sure to look above if you set up under a tree.  Trees can harbor wasps’ nests and beehives.  Ticks can dive bomb you en masse

Child Safety

Parents, please educate your children on the safety rules for your organization. Know where they are and have them check in with you regularly. Children should never do anything, even go to the restroom, alone. They must know to stay with you or their designated buddies at all times. Teach them to be cautious around strangers and to seek out any reenactor in costume for assistance in an uncomfortable situation.

Remind your child that it is period correct for children to always obey adults and do exactly what they're told. It may be years before they see through that story.

In an ideal world, kids would always do what they are told. Reenactors, if you see anyone's child in jeopardy or breaking safety rules, step in and correct the situation yourself, immediately. There is always time to tell their parents later, but children can get into a risky situation all too quickly. 
 
 
 

LIVING HISTORY 

The 1^st Tennessee Organization is committed to presenting living history activities on an on-going basis. People with experience or interests in candle making, soap making, sewing, quilting, spinning and weaving, are encouraged to share their skills. Of course we can always use another cook or cook’s helper. Although we do not cook for the military organization as a whole (they do most of their own cooking), we do cook for ourselves and our families as a group. You may want to consider bringing a sewing, crochet or knitting project to keep you busy during the quite times.  

As a living historian you will be expected to be in period dress throughout the event. The morning trek to the necessary may be undertaken in your sleep clothes providing they are covered with a long cape, coat or blanket and done before camp opens to the public. Accurately clothed children and young teens are a tremendous asset to the impression of families caught up in war and full participation of families is encouraged. However due to liability issues, no one under the age of 18 may participate unless they have a parent that also participates and is present at all events attended by the underage individual. 

When you attend your first reenactment, you may see women with zippered ball gowns, black tennis shoes, sunglasses and cigarettes, walking down the path. Different groups and individuals have their own standards of authenticity. The suggestions listed above are what the 1st Tennessee Civilian Corps considers the minimum acceptable standard for authenticity, as we endeavor to represent average rural, middle-class to lower-class Southern women, men and children during the Civil War. We strive to look and act like people from the 1860’s, not other reenactors.  

CLOTHING (WOMEN’S): 

Achieving a truly accurate physical impression of a woman from the Civil War era can take months or even years to research. However during you initial year with the civilian organization, a surface authenticity is all that is required. Dresses during the Civil War era were quite fitted, making loaning of items difficult, so you will want to begin supplying your own wardrobe as soon as possible. Prices of most items will vary greatly, depending upon whether you pay a seamstress or you sew them yourself. Advice and help in period sewing techniques, patterns fitting, fabric selection, etc. are offered to all prospective and existing members free of charge. Feel free to contact Jennifer Moore or Carrie Sharp to make arrangements. 

Dresses:

A dress is the very first article of clothing that you will want to have made or sew. During the Civil War years, dresses tended to emphasize wide shoulders, narrow waistlines and wide hips, culminating in the distinctive “bell” shaped skirt. A rounded hour glass figure was truly the height of fashion during the early 1860’s. Therefore, the dresses worn affected a “dropped shoulder” effect to emphasize the smooth, wide line of a woman’s shoulders, the illusion of a small waist and a voluminous skirt emphasized the width of a woman’s hips. Although the skirt was very large in order to accommodate the hoopskirt* or “crinoline” of the period, the bodice of the dress was quite form fitting.

*You should never where a hoopskirt when cooking on a campfire. Chances are you might get cooked too!  

Collars:

One element in women’s clothing is almost universally overlooked by most reenactors: the use of white collars and cuffs. These are not a part of the actual dress, but are separate detachable accessories made of white cotton (which could be boiled clean, starched and pressed more easily than the entire dress). Collars and cuffs for work dresses should be simple in design and measure between 1”-2” wide. The collar should be basted to the inside of the neckline of your dress and the cuffs likewise basted to the inside of the wrist openings of your sleeves. 

Underpinnings:

Proper undergarments, including a corset, chemise, drawers, petticoat and stockings, are very important and should be among the second level of clothing purchased or sewn. 

Drawers:

Civil War era women wore mid-calf length drawers that had no crotch seam. We are primarily concerned with the parts of your clothing that are visible. As long as the drawers you choose are of appropriate white cotton fabric and come down to at least mid-calf, your choice of historically accurate “open” drawers or sewing the drawers shut is entirely up to you. Likewise whether you choose to keep your drawers up with a period correct button closure waistband or you opt for modern elastic or drawstring is also a matter of personal preference. However drawstrings or elastic add unwanted extra bulk at the waist, as well as cause difficulties using primitive bathroom facilities. Drawers also provide protection from chafing in the hot summer weather. For cooler events drawers made of white flannel material can help to keep you warm.  

Corsets:

Bras were not used in the 19^th Century. Corsets are not required but are strongly recommended. Small busted women might do without a corset or use a waist cincher over their chemise and larger women might start with a “merry widow” type foundation temporarily. A properly fitted corset is not uncomfortable. On the contrary, it provides excellent back support and helps carry the weight of heavy skirts and petticoats. Just as important, a properly fitted corset will give you the unique fit and look of the 1860’s. A period correct option to a full boned corset is the use of soft stays or a work corset, although these do not provide the support of a regular boned corset. Since 1860’s garments are quite fitted through the torso, a corset prevents a lot of wear and tear on you dress bodice. 

Petticoats (1 required, more are optional):

You will need at least one petticoat, which is really nothing more than a gauged (cartridge pleated) white cotton skirt, hemmed slightly shorter than your finished outer skirt. A plain petticoat is fine to begin with, but you may wish to make or acquire a corded petticoat, which uses cording inserted in the lower third of the skirt. This adds fullness to the lower part of the skirt, and also prevents the skirt and petticoat from wrapping around your ankles when you walk.  

Chemise:

A chemise is necessary with a corset, so you don’t get pinched in awkward places. It will also keep you dress and corset cleaner longer. 
 
 

Stockings and Garter:

Above the knee stocking should be made of knitted cotton or wool, with cotton more comfortable for warm weather reenacting. These are available at a modest price from many sutlers. These stockings do not have elastic in the tops to stay up on their own, so you will need garters. Round rolled elastic garters are available from sutlers; however flat elastic covered with ribbon make much more comfortable garters that are more economical and quite simple to make.  

Shoes:

Shoes can be a major, but very important investment. The use of canvas “coolie” slippers while acceptable is not recommended. You will be on your feet for hours each day at a reenactment and these shoes simply do not provide the needed support. The least expensive option is to purchase a plain pair of “granny” boots or ankle boots from any shoe store. These should be of black leather, plain and devoid of extra trim, with square or rounded toes, relatively flat heels, with the smoothest sole available, and lace up the side or front. Finding the appropriate style is more important than color. If you find the correct style you can always dye the shoes with black leather dye in a few minutes for minimal cost. Period boots may be mail ordered from custom shoemakers, but have an interim plan, as the boots can be expensive and the waiting time prohibitive. Alternately there is nothing historically wrong with a poor woman or child going barefoot, but with such hazards as fires, wood splinters, stickers and horse droppings etc., going barefoot is not allowed in the 1^st Tennessee. This rule applies to Military as well as Civilian.

Aprons:

Aprons are not required but are extremely useful, easy to make and inexpensive. A good apron will protect you dress and provide good pockets to stash things in. A pattern is not needed since the apron consists of gauging a rectangle of fabric and attaching a cord or string. The apron should extend from hip to hip and down to within a few inches of the finished skirt. Pockets and/or bib may be added. The bid (if desired) should not have shoulder straps, but pin directly to the bodice of your dress with two straight pins. Shoulder straps on aprons were worn exclusively by young girls and are not appropriate for grown women. The fabric should be sturdy cotton (not white) and the color can be light, dark, a small plaid, check or stripe. Solid aprons are not recommended as they tend to show stains, something aprons were supposed to camouflage.  
 
 
 
 
 
 

Headwear:

While headwear is not required, you may find the use of bonnets will help prevent sunburn and keep the rain off. Sunbonnets can be corded or slat and should be made of cotton fabric that does not match your dress. Civil War era sunbonnets had an apron or “skirt” that fell well below the shoulder to completely shields the woman’s neck and shoulders from the sun. Day caps are little head coverings trimmed in lace and/or ribbons, either white or black, a holdover from the 1840’s and generally worn by much older ladies.  A dress bonnet is appropriate for almost all adult female impressions, especially on Sunday. Straw shaker bonnets are a good choice for an impression of a woman of limited means. Warning: There are more inaccurate bonnets for sale than accurate ones. A good accurate bonnet can be expensive and only a few people make these, so do your research before you buy! Find out who the reputable bonnet makers are before you purchase. Sources for bonnet makers are listed in the appendix.  

Shawls, Jackets and Capes:

A warm covering of some kind is generally desirable for chilly evening and cool early mornings. Shaws made of hand woven appearing cotton or wool with the ends unraveled and ”fringed” either square or rectangular in shape of natural colors, would be appropriate. Knitted or crocheted shawls and/or “fascinators” (a triangular shawl) are also acceptable. A jacket, usually called a “sacque” is the most practical outerwear garment as you have free movement of your hands and arms, especially when working around a campfire. Capes and cloaks were generally made of wool and circular rather than gathered. The Folkwear “Kinsale Cloak” pattern is incorrect for our time period; a circular cape is more accurate. Capes and cloaks appear to have been more of a high fashion garment rather than one worn on an everyday basis, so your best bet to keep warm is to start off with a sacque. Save your cloak for walking to “town” on a cold day or sitting around the fire after the evening chores are finished.  

Alternate Garments: Wrappers, Sacques, Petticoats and Ballgowns

After your first few years of reenacting after having acquired a good basic wardrobe you may want to branch out and add a few items that can be useful to have at an event. A wrapper can be made to wear for that first trip to the “necessary” in the morning, before you dress for the day. A sacque and petticoat is also an “undress” garment that can be worn in your camp prior to dressing for the day. Neither of these outfits are to be worn in “public” as these type of garments were only worn by women within their own home.  
 
 
 
 

TOILETTE AND ACCESSORIES 

Hairstyles:

There was a universal hairstyle popular during the war. The goal was the appearance of a round, wide face, so hair was arranged very low on the crown of the head, and wider to the sides. Hair was always parted down the middle and slicked down on the crown, then pulled to the back and secured with pins into a bun or roll. Older women wore this bun higher on the back of the head, younger women would sometimes drop this bun into a roll at the nape of the neck. I have never seen a picture of a period woman wearing bangs.

Hair was neatly confined, with nary a strand out of place. Remember that bathing was not done as regularly as it is in modern times, and that hair was often dressed with sweet oils. You will notice the plastered down look on women's hair in many period photos. To achieve width at the sides of the hair a clever technique was used. Hair was saved from hairbrushes, then this hair was formed into a wad about the size of a small potato. This wad was called a "rat” This was pinned under the fall of hair at the sides, to give extra fullness. Farm wives and women who worked just slicked the hair back into a bun. This was more of a functional way to keep the hair neat than to be fashionable. If you have long hair, duplicating this style will be easy. Evidence of wavy or curly hair is infrequent in period photos, so most likely women tried to straighten their hair to achieve this look. Photos exist of women with short hair, but they are mostly teens. About one in one hundred photos of adult women show short hair, but the short styles are parted in the middle and slicked down on top to mimic the long-hair style. 
 
 

Hair was only allowed to relax into longer, more elaborate styles at balls or formal affairs. Period women elaborately decorated their hair with jewelry, flowers and ribbons. Sausage curls and ringlets were popular. Remember that this was only for evening wear, hair was always confined during the day. The reenactress with short hair will need to use a few tricks to achieve this look. You can use hair gel to smooth the hair on top or a day cap can hide your short shag. The clever use of falls, hair extensions, or a hairnet may be effective. If you do not usually part your hair in the middle, wash it before going to the event and form a middle part so the hair will dry smooth. If you have bangs, use hair gel or pomade to blend those short hairs into the longer hair. Bangs were NOT a period look and you must hide them.

Hairnets:

This is the most hotly debated item of personal wear to be found at reenactments. You will see them worn, in all their glaring variety of colors, at many reenactments. It is, unfortunately, the #1 item that new reenactors waste their hard earned money on. Hairnets, also called nets (snood is a term from the 20th century), were occasionally worn during the Civil War era. When they were worn, they were usually made to match the color of a woman's hair. Other styles were elaborate constructions of ribbon, velvet strips, or braid with beading. These elaborate nets were worn much like a bonnet--as decorative headwear that just happened to conceal the hair.

Despite the debate, nets remain an effective means of disguising modern or short hairstyles that cannot be camouflaged any other way. Try to purchase a net of fine fiber in a color that closely matches your own hair color. Avoid the synthetic snoods in circus colors! They are slippery anyway and will slither out of your hair constantly. Pin your net far back on the crown of your head, behind your ears - don't don it like a shower cap. 

Eyewear:

Modern eyeglasses are strongly discouraged at Civil War reenactments. Nothing is more of an anachronism than modern eyeglasses on an otherwise historically dressed individual. Oval wire frame glasses are permissible. Given the luxury status of eyeglasses in the Civil War, the best solutions include; contact lenses (a box of disposable lenses for use only at reenactments is quite reasonable), going without (if possible) or finally, obtaining antique frames fitted with your prescription. Modern sunglasses and glasses that darken automatically in the sunlight are absolutely not allowed.  While you are a prospective member you may wear modern prescription glasses, but please make the adjustment as soon as possible.  

Makeup:

Makeup was not generally worn during the Civil War, sunscreen is highly recommended.  

Toiletries and Medicine:

Modern toiletries and medicines should be stowed in a small wooden or metal box or draw string bag that could have been available at the time. Reproduction combs, mirrors, toothbrushes, perfume bottles etc. are available from many sutlers. The best period hand towels are made of white cotton huckabuck, available at many Walmart fabric departments. Casstile soap is available at most grocery stores.  

Jewelry:

Generally gold was the metal of choice for jewelry in the Civil War, rather than silver. If you choose to wear jewelry with a work dress, it should be limited to a simple brooch or perhaps a belt buckle at most. For slightly dressier occasions, a pocket watch and perhaps a pair of earrings (small gold hoops, hook back only – no posts) that you had before the war and you could not bear to part with for “The Cause”, would be appropriate. No wristwatches, high school or college rings or modern solitaire engagement rings are allowed. Simple gold bands are excellent for married women. Chatelaines are not appropriate with work dresses, but may be worn with a fancier day dress. 

Smoking:

Cigarettes were not in common use during the Civil War and were usually only used in cities by the wealthy, young “fast” crowd. Lower class Southern women were occasionally known to smoke clay or corncob pipes.  
 
 

CHILDRENS CLOTHING: 

Infants & Toddlers:

Historically children of both sexes wore long white gowns, which ended well below their feet, until they began to walk. Once the baby could walk the gown was shortened to allow for easy mobility. Except for the difference in length, an infants gown and a toddlers gown were virtually identical. Both had wide “boat” necklines, short sleeves and long skirts. They were universally made of white cotton, which could be boiled clean. These wide necklines and short sleeves were not terrible warm articles of clothing, but the Victorians believed that it was far more harmful for a child to be overheated than to be chilled. If your infant or toddler needs extra warmth at a reenactment, a light colored blanket sleeper under the gown coupled with a knitted crocheted “sacque or cap” set (usually available in thrift stores or from doting grandmothers)to cover the top of the blanket sleeper that peeps out of the neckline, are very helpful.

The only way to tell the difference between boys and gorls of this age in period photographs is by looking at the part of their hair. Like adults, the boys hair was parted on the side, and little girls always had center parts. 

Children (ages 2-12): 

Boys:

During the Civil War, boys frequently wore dresses or tunics up to ages six. However from a realistic point of view, most modern boys will not tolerate dresses any longer than you can physically restrain them in said dress and some fathers do not even tolerate dresses on their sons that long. Since people of more modest economic means tended to “breech” their sons earlier than wealthier people, we can be grateful that we are just “rural folk” who were forced to breech their sons at an early age, making both fathers and sons very happy. 
 
 
 
 

If your son will tolerate it, the most historically accurate “breeches” would be a “drop front” knee set of breeches with a shirt that buttoned to the tunic at the waist. Some boys will tolerate this until age 7 or so, and other three-year-olds will tolerate it at all, but insist on having long trousers. As long as the shirts and trousers or breeches are accurate to the time period and your child is happy in them, how early you breech your son is entirely up to you. If you can, please encourage your sons that are wearing long trousers to also wear a coat. As a sign of maturity, if he was grown up enough to wear long trousers (men’s wear), then he was expected to dress like an adult and jackets or coats were generally required.

We want the children to learn to enjoy reenacting and be active participants in our living history scenarios, not be miserable and dread participating. 

Girls:

If your daughter has a short haircut, there is no need to camouflage her short hair with bonnets, nets or anything else. Girls of this age frequently had their hair cut to chin length or slightly longer; however like women’s hairstyles, bangs were not worn. If your daughter has long hair, this is also historically accurate, but her hair should be braided or plaited, as unconfined hair was not socially tolerated in this time period. While sunbonnets are not required, for the sake of preventing sunburn, they are strongly recommended. The cape on any sunbonnet should completely cover your daughter’s exposed shoulders.

Girl’s dresses boasted either boat necklines, like the infant’s gowns, or jewel necklines, like adult women’s dresses. Either is equally correct. These bodices could be fitted, gathered or pleated to a boat shaped yolk. Skirts were either gathered or pleated to the bodice, with or without a waistband, with the hem of the skirt falling between the knee and the mid-calf.

Pantalets should be worn and should fall just below the knee for all ages of girls. Aprons or pinafores which reflect the “off the shoulder” boat necklines were very common and strongly encouraged. These aprons will help extend the life of dresses, which are sorely abused by active young girls at reenactments.

Outerwear: Small hip length capes or waist length “zoave” style jackets are appropriate for young girls.  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

CAMP EQUIPMENT: 

Bedding:

Modern cots, sleeping bags and air mattresses are permissible, if  you have period looking quilts or blankets to disguise them. If you are sleeping on the ground, you may want a gum blanket, poncho, solar blanket or a piece of plastic to use as a ground cloth. 

Baskets or Boxes:

Simple hand baskets are useful to carry cameras or purses. If your basket does not have a lid, please cover the top with a scrap of period appropriate fabric. Large willow laundry type baskets will help carry your things into camp from the parking area. Natural willow, wicker or split white oak is fine. Wooden boxes without modern advertising is also acceptable. 

Chair or Stool:

Antique-looking wooden folding or ladder back chairs can come in handy while sitting around camp. You may also purchase a cloth covered wooden folding stool, but replace the seat with off white canvas, ticking or a tapestry like fabric. Alternately a sturdy wooden box makes a comfortable seat after you have been standing all day. 

Lighting:

A very small flashlight may be carried for late night visits to the port-a-johns, but please leave them well hidden in the tent at all other times. Candles and period kerosene lanterns or lamps should be the only visible lights in the camp after dark.  

Food & Food Storage:

For the most part we supply our own foodstuffs at most events. You are welcome to make arrangements for combined meals with other members. Occasionally we have a camp cook who provides food for a fee. Many events have vendors who sell food, but their availability can not be counted on. It is always a good idea to bring snack foods as a back up.  

The following is taken from Fannie & Vera’s great website.

Miss Vera's advice:  When it comes to food, think of a re-enactment as a two-day picnic.  Memorize and meditate on this advice.  It is the hard learned wisdom of an experienced camp cook.  In the peak of summer, try to avoid cooking during the heat of the day, or at all.  It is entirely possible to live on uncooked, picnic style foods for a two-day reenactment.  This also saves you a lot of work, and makes a busy day less stressful.

Although cooking in the summer should be avoided, there are times during the colder months when it is pleasurable to hover over a pot of beans or stew.  

Sanitary Food Handling

Clean hands  An essential item you need to acquire is a pump bottle of hand sanitizer.  Hand washing opportunities are limited at reenactments, and the best you can do sometimes is a wash in cold water.  All persons handling food should make use of this commodity, and diners should spread some on before eating.

Storage  Make sure perishables are kept on ice.  Disguise your ice chest, but use it to keep foods at a proper temperature to discourage spoilage.  If your ice supply runs low, then by all means go to a store and get more ice-and do it before your current supply melts away.  Store meats in air-tight "Tupperware" types of containers instead of the store wrappings they are purchased in.  Juices from the meats can leak in your ice chest and contaminate other foods.

Some folks are quick to point out that such storage methods were not available during the Civil War era.  I am just as quick to point out that dysentery was a wide-spread, deadly disease during that time, and spoiled foods were the major cause of that complaint.  I'm sure you don’t want to spend the weekend running back and forth to the porta-potty with a period correct case of dysentery. 

Washing Dishes  Purchase anti-bacterial dish soap for washing dishes-you can keep some soap in a small period correct bottle by your scullery area.  Ideally you would douse your dishes with boiling water to sanitize them.  Since that is not always practical, I recommend that you purchase sanitizer for your rinse water.  A few drops of chlorine bleach will work, but it tastes nasty and is hard on your hands.  The best sanitizer is BTF (Bar Tender's Formula), available at restaurant supply stores; it is tasteless, odorless and rinses cleanly.

Cutting Boards  Wooden cutting boards are not only period correct, they are more sanitary to use.  They are excellent for preparing and serving breads, meats and cheeses on.  Be sure to wash your board between uses.

Towels  You just can't have enough of these.  Period towels were made of flour-sack, muslin, or made from cast off clothing.  We make piles of towels inexpensively from thrift shop sheets.  These can be bleached clean, or if they get too funky, we just throw them away and make some more.  
 
 
 

Water Containers

Drinking Water  Make one of your first purchases a period correct water jug, cask or barrel.   This essential item will insure that you have plenty of cool drinking water available.  If you have to go into your hot tent to get a drink from a plastic jug, you will not do it often enough to avoid dehydration.  A period correct water jug, keep within easy reach, is the best investment you can make for your health.

Water may be kept in period correct crocks, jugs, buckets or barrels.  Make sure your water vessel has a cover or stopper to keep out dust and bugs.  If you use a crock or cask with a large opening for filling, you can plunk in a nice chunk of ice to keep your water cool.  Thick earthenware crocks and jugs keep water cool without ice if they are tightly covered and stored on the ground.

Washing Water  Although wooden buckets are period correct, metal buckets were also in use during the era.  Metal buckets also have the advantage of being lighter, and you can place them directly over the coals to heat wash water in.  Get in the habit of leaving a bucket or large pot full of water on the fire at all times, so that warm wash water is available when you need it.  You will need at least two buckets to wash dishes, one for washing and one for rinsing.

Serving Supplies

Dining Ware  You will need knives, forks and spoons to dine with.  Scour the thrift shops for silver plated flatware in period patterns.  Don't bring stainless steel dining ware-it really is farby.  Period forks only had two or three tines (no eating peas with your fork!), these may be hard to find, so do the best you can until you can acquire some reproduction forks from a sutler.

Dishes  Soldiers use tin plates or pie pans, these will work for some impressions, but successful merchants or high class persons would use china sets in a period pattern.  Wooden bowls are widely available.  

Bowls & Crocks  Serve your repast in stoneware crocks, wooden bowls, or fine silver trays and dishes. 

Cooking Equipment

Cast Iron Pans  These are the standard for camp cooking.  Iron holds up to the extremes of heat found in open fires and were the original "non-stick" cookware.  A well seasoned iron pan will be easy to cook in and easy to clean.  They are terribly heavy, so be sure you are up to lifting a heavy pan full of heavy food

Enamel Ware  Graniteware as available today (black, blue or red with white speckles) was not available during the Civil War.  Camouflage your graniteware coffee pot by spray painting it with flat black engine enamel.

Tinware  Tin pots were used on stoves, but the solder seams do not hold up well to open fire cooking.  Don't think you can pass your aluminum pots off as tinware.  It is painfully obvious that they are just aluminum pots-leave them at home.

Remember that any pot or pan used over an open fire gets covered with icky black soot on the sides and bottom-it is a real mess to clean off.  Bring trash bags to pack your cookware in for the ride home so you don't blacken everything they come in contact with.

Grills and Stoves

An iron grill is a dandy thing to have if you will be cooking in camp.  When you cook directly over the open fire, you have to balance your cooking ware across logs or coals, and the perch is sometimes precarious.  A grill keeps your cooking pots level and makes it easy to add more fuel to the fire if needed.

Some folks use clever stoves that contain the fire above the surface of the ground (dandy for cooking in parks who want to preserve their manicured lawns).  These stoves are usually custom made by a blacksmith or local welder.  Look around at encampments for nifty ideas for constructing your own stove.

A Word about Pets at Reenactments

Most events do not allow pets. Please leave your pets at home or with a sitter during a reenactment. There is a lot of noise and confusion at events that can traumatize a sensitive schnauzer. Unless you can effectively restrain your pet and keep them under your eye at all times, they can become a pest to others. 

Website

Be sure to visit our website for a wealth of information and lots of great pictures from past reenactments. It also includes a schedule of events, message boards, forms and a history of the 1^st Tennessee. 

www.1sttennesseecob.com